If Brandon Maxwell's previous collection was about to return home, it was about returning to fundamentals. Gone, for the most part, were the splashy colors of Maxwell's Spring 19th orbit when the designer revived his beloved black and white. The silhouettes were tightened up next to the palette: the weight here was on a lean, monochromatic wasp-waist look, with lots of pencil shapes and beautifully tailored bootleg pants. There were some sporting gesture anoraks and tops shaped like racing tanks, for example, and Maxwell loosened his silhouette tonight, showing a swishy palazzo pants and long-sleeved peridot satin blouse and a pair of bouffant dresses and formal skirts. 19659002] But overall, the collection claimed a mood of narrowing. As Maxwell explained after the show, he has had a family disease and the experience made him create clothes that felt a little protective and armor-like. You could feel the desire in his trim puff jackets, cape attachment on certain sleeves, and the funnel neck adorning many of his tops. But for the most part, the protection spirit came through in Maxwell's raising to terra firm, which stood for immaculate, classic look with light retail appeal. As he noted, not every season is right for whimsy.